The Yuzawa of Snow Country

Kawabata's snow country is a hot-spring town on the west side of Honshu, reached from Tokyo by a train that runs south to north through a long mountain tunnel and comes out into deep Niigata snow. The map draws on the real onsen town of Yuzawa: the station, the bathhouses and inns on the slope, the cedars of the shrine, and the border tunnel that opens the book.

Author
Yasunari Kawabata, 1948
Places
5

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Chapter 10% in
Shimamura

The Shimizu Tunnel

Chapter 1

Map of The Shimizu Tunnel today
Yuzawa today

The novel opens on the night train from Tokyo as it runs through a long tunnel under the ridge and emerges into the snow country beyond. The passage is the Shimizu Tunnel, the single-track bore that in the 1930s carried the line north into deep-snow Niigata; the prefecture boundary sits inside it.

Chapter 1

explicitThe long border tunnel the train passes through is the real Shimizu Tunnel, opened in 1931 on the Joetsu Line beneath the mountains between Gunma and Niigata; this marks its published location on the prefecture border, south of the onsen town.

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Shimamura

Echigo-Yuzawa Station

Chapter 1

Map of Echigo-Yuzawa Station today
Yuzawa today

The train slows and stops at the snow-country station where Shimamura arrives for his stay. In the town this is Echigo-Yuzawa, the gateway to the onsen, its platform lit against the drifts and the cold pouring in when the doors open.

Chapter 1

explicitThe signal stop where the train halts at the start of the book is the real Echigo-Yuzawa Station in Yuzawa, Niigata; coordinates from the station record.

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Shimamura

Yuzawa hot-spring town

Chapter 1

Map of Yuzawa hot-spring town today
Yuzawa today

The affair with the geisha Komako plays out across a hot-spring town of steaming baths, wooden inns and snow-heaped streets. Kawabata built it from Yuzawa, the Niigata onsen where he stayed; its springs and lodging houses are the everyday setting for Shimamura's visits from Tokyo.

Chapters 1-3

explicitThe onsen town of the novel is drawn from the real Yuzawa hot springs; this marks the town centre rather than one bathhouse, since the book moves across several inns and baths.

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Chapters 1-375% in
Shimamura

Takahan, the inn on the slope

Chapters 1-3

Map of Takahan, the inn on the slope today
Yuzawa today

Shimamura's room at the inn, with its view down over the town and its long corridors, is where much of his time with Komako passes. The lodging is unnamed, but the writing was done at Takahan, the historic ryokan on the slope above Yuzawa where Kawabata's room survives.

Chapters 1-3

inspired byThe novel does not name Shimamura's inn, but Kawabata wrote the book while staying at Takahan in Yuzawa, whose old wing is preserved as the room where he worked; the inn's own hillside stands behind the fictional lodging.

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Chapter 2100% in
Shimamura

The cedars of Suwa Shrine

Chapter 2

Map of The cedars of Suwa Shrine today
Yuzawa today

One afternoon the two climb to a stand of great cedars behind the town and sit in the cool under the trees. The grove is read as Suwa Shrine below the inn, whose old cedars are a local landmark and are pointed out as the trees of the novel.

Chapter 2

explicitThe tall cedars where the pair rest appear in the book and are identified with the grove at Suwa Shrine, a short walk downhill from Takahan; coordinates from the shrine's listing.

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