The Istanbul of The Museum of Innocence

One man's love turned into an inventory of a city. The map runs from the wealthy boutiques and flats of Nişantaşı, where Kemal is engaged and the affair begins, down the hill through Beyoğlu to the old timber houses of Çukurcuma, where the years of longing settle and where Pamuk later built a real museum to hold them.

Author
Orhan Pamuk, 2008
Places
6

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The engagement0% in
Kemal

Nişantaşı, Kemal's district

The engagement

Map of Nişantaşı, Kemal's district today
Istanbul today

The gilded world Kemal is born into: a wealthy Istanbul family, an apartment among the well-to-do of Nişantaşı, and an engagement to a suitable young woman. Pamuk's own childhood district, its avenues of tailors and shops frame the life the narrator will slowly abandon.

Opening chapters

explicitNişantaşı is a real district and the novel names it repeatedly; the family's specific flat is invented, so this sits at the heart of the quarter, near the Teşvikiye junction.

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Spring 197520% in
Kemal

The Şanzelize boutique

Spring 1975

Map of The Şanzelize boutique today
Istanbul today

Buying a handbag for his fiancée, Kemal walks into a small Nişantaşı boutique and finds a distant young relative, Füsun, working behind the counter. The chance meeting is the hinge of the whole book. The shop is fictional, but the world of imported labels and moneyed Nişantaşı around it is exact.

Opening chapters

inspired byThe Şanzelize boutique is invented. The novel sets it among the fashionable shops of Nişantaşı, so this marks a representative point on Valikonağı Avenue, the district's shopping street.

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The affair40% in
Kemal

The Merhamet Apartments

The affair

Map of The Merhamet Apartments today
Istanbul today

In an empty flat his family keeps in the Merhamet Apartments, Kemal and Füsun meet in secret over one spring. He will remember it as the happiest stretch of his life, and its afternoons set off the collecting that consumes his years. The building is invented; Teşvikiye Avenue, where Pamuk puts it, is real.

The Happiest Moment of My Life

inspired byThe Merhamet Apartmanı is a fictional building. The novel places it on Teşvikiye Avenue in Nişantaşı, so this marks a point along that real street; Pamuk has said he drew on his family's own apartment block.

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The obsession60% in
Kemal

İstiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu

The obsession

Map of İstiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu today
Istanbul today

As the affair breaks and Kemal's engagement collapses, the city itself becomes the stage for his longing: the cinemas, meyhanes and crowds of Beyoğlu and its great avenue, İstiklal, walked over and over in a decade of restless nights. The novel's Istanbul is a real, walkable place, and this is its spine.

The middle chapters

explicitİstiklal Avenue and the Beyoğlu district are named in the novel; this marks a central point on the pedestrian avenue.

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The lost years80% in
Kemal

Çukurcuma, the Keskin house

The lost years

Map of Çukurcuma, the Keskin house today
Istanbul today

For eight years Kemal comes almost nightly to dinner at the modest Çukurcuma house where Füsun now lives with her family, quietly pocketing the objects she touches. The steep, old timber streets of Çukurcuma, then a poor quarter of junk shops, hold the long middle of his devotion. The house is invented; the quarter is real.

The later chapters

inspired byÇukurcuma is a real quarter of Beyoğlu, named in the novel; the Keskin family house is fictional, so this marks a point in the quarter's lanes near where Pamuk later sited the museum.

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The museum100% in
Kemal

The Museum of Innocence

The museum

Map of The Museum of Innocence today
Istanbul today

In the novel Kemal turns the Çukurcuma house into a museum of the objects he saved, so his story can be walked rather than only read. Pamuk built it for real: a museum at Çukurcuma Caddesi, Dalgıç Çıkmazı No. 2, opened in 2012, where the book's ticket is printed inside and a visitor can climb to Kemal's attic. Fiction and address are the same place.

The closing chapters

explicitNamed in the book.

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