The Pamplona of The Sun Also Rises

A restless group of expatriates drifts from 1920s Paris to the fiesta of San Fermín in Pamplona, where the bulls, the drink and their tangled loves come to a head before scattering again.

Author
Ernest Hemingway, 1926
Places
5

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Book 10% in
Jake Barnes

Montparnasse, Paris

Book 1

Map of Montparnasse, Paris today
Pamplona today

Before Spain there is Paris: the cafés, the drinking, and the aimless circling of Jake, Brett and their friends. Montparnasse establishes the wound at the centre of the book, Jake's longing for Brett and the restlessness that sends them all south.

Book 1

explicitThe novel opens in the Montparnasse café world Hemingway names directly; sited on the real quarter around the Boulevard du Montparnasse, deliberately outside the Pamplona bbox as the book's starting frame.

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The fishing25% in
Jake Barnes

Burguete and the Irati river

The fishing

Map of Burguete and the Irati river today
Pamplona today

Away from the crowd, Jake and Bill fish the cold Irati and drink wine in the hills above Pamplona. It is the one clean, happy stretch of the book, a male friendship at ease before the fiesta pulls everyone back into jealousy and noise.

Chapters 11–12

explicitThe novel names Burguete and the trout fishing on the Irati; pinned on the real village of Auritz/Burguete in the Navarrese Pyrenees above Pamplona.

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The fiesta50% in
Lady Brett Ashley

Plaza del Castillo and the Hotel La Perla

The fiesta

Map of Plaza del Castillo and the Hotel La Perla today
Pamplona today

The Plaza del Castillo is the fiesta's living room, ringed by cafés where the group drinks and quarrels through San Fermín. At the hotel here, the aficionado Montoya keeps his faith in Jake until Brett's pursuit of the young bullfighter breaks it.

Chapters 13–17

explicitThe great central square of Pamplona; the Hotel La Perla on its corner is the real inn tied to Hemingway and to Montoya's hotel in the novel, sited here on the plaza.

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The encierro75% in
Robert Cohn

Calle Estafeta, the running of the bulls

The encierro

Map of Calle Estafeta, the running of the bulls today
Pamplona today

Each dawn the bulls run through these streets to the ring, and the danger gives the fiesta its edge. Hemingway's precise attention to the encierro turns spectacle into a test of nerve that quietly judges every man in the group.

Chapter 15

explicitThe long straight of Calle Estafeta is the real heart of the encierro route through Pamplona's old town, run each morning of San Fermín.

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The bullfight100% in
Lady Brett Ashley

Plaza de Toros de Pamplona

The bullfight

Map of Plaza de Toros de Pamplona today
Pamplona today

In the ring the book's admiration for grace under pressure finds its clearest form in the young matador Romero. Brett's infatuation with him, watched by the wounded Jake, brings the fiesta's tensions to their breaking point before everyone scatters.

Chapters 15–18

explicitThe real bullring at the end of the encierro route, where the afternoon corridas of San Fermín are held; pinned on the arena on the Paseo Hemingway.

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